Dare to Be Different in a Juke

Just when we thought Nissan couldn't pull another out-of-the-ordinary design out of its creative hat, it introduces the unconventional new Juke. The name says it all... In football terms 'juke' implies an unexpected motion to fool the opposition and that's exactly what Nissan's new subcompact is doing with its different but desirable design. It might not be everybody's cup of joe, but then again, Nissan didn't design it for just anybody.
The Nissan Juke is a head-turner, that's for sure. From its predatory grille and muscular wheel arches to its bold light fittings and strong stance, its design has innovation written all over it. And that's just on the outside. The interior is equally styled with multi-textured seat fabrics as well as its trademark motorcycle-inspired gauges and centre console.
Four models complete the Crossover Juke range that retails new from a surprisingly low and highly competitive R198 000 if you buy it new. If you're lucky enough to find a used Nissan Juke, get it immediately, or blink and it might be gone. There are two petrol powertrains to choose from. A smart choice for the everyday commuter is the 5-speed manual 1.6L Acenta or Acenta+ model that both deliver a very capable 86kW of power and 158Nm of torque. For those who prefer more grunt under the hood, the 6-speed manual Tekna models will let you take command of the road with a mighty 140kW power and 240Nm torque offering.
Nissan's adjustable I-CON steering and transmission system available on the Acenta+ and Tekna models, allows you to switch from Normal to Sport to Eco mode in no time at all. Normal mode adapts to your acceleration needs while Sport mode ensure sharper steering response, raises idle speed and cuts down on turbo lag. Eco mode in turn reduces energy and fuel consumption while the air conditioning is in use. Irrespective of the mode you've selected, you'll experience more power and better handling in the Nissan Juke than most other subcompacts.
The SUV-like high driving position of the Juke ensures great visibility while the driver seat is fully adjustable for optimum comfort. And though the 5-door, 5-seater Juke might not be huge on space, it offers clever luggage solutions like a hidden 44-litre area below the board. Other model dependent features that make the Nissan Juke a worthy buy is cruise control, electric windows, Bluetooth® and a keyless entry system to name a few. And the Juke is safe, very safe. It was rewarded a 5 Star Euro NCAP safety rating in recognition of its variety of standard safety measures including driver, passenger, side and curtain airbags as well as ABS, EBD and Brake Assist. But most of all, it's a safe bet to buy.

Hillman Wizard

The Hillman Wizard was a six-cylinder car introduced by the Hillman Motor Car Co Ltd in April 1931 continuing in production until 1933. It was produced in two models, the 65 and 75. The 65 model had a 65mm bore and was rated at 15.7 horsepower, while the 75 model had a 75mm bore and was rated at 20.9 horsepower.
The key selling point for the Wizard, the self-proclaimed Car of the Moderns, was that it had been tested for international conditions, not just those found in Great Britain. The car was reportedly subjected to every conceivable and practical test. Photos exist to this date of the Wizard being test-driven in France, Spain, Italy, Austria, Algeria, Egypt and Morocco. The Wizard was first released with five body styles, each available in a choice of three colours. The models were the five-seater family saloon, £270; saloon de luxe, £285; coupe-cabriolet, £299; four-door sports saloon, £299; five-seater tourer, £270. The bare chassis was available for £198.
The cheaper family saloon and touring car models came with 19 inch steel artillery wheels. Wire wheels were available for an additional £7 10/-. All other models had wire wheels as standard, and Triplex glass throughout instead of only for the windscreen.
Both engines had a 106mm stroke, meaning the 65 model measured 2,110 c.c. and the 75 model measured 2,810 c.c. The 75 model was predominately targeted towards export markets, given the additional £5 horse-power tax that was payable due to its larger capacity.
The straight six cylinder engine featured side valves, a detachable head and coil ignition. The gearbox was a dry single-plate clutch with four speeds (silent third). Suspension was provided by half-elliptic spring at both front and back, with hydraulic shock absorbers. Brakes were a Bendix-Perrot duo-servo series on all four wheels, operated through armoured cables by pedal or lever.
It is estimated that about 3,250 Wizards were sold in 1931, approximately 2,186 in 1932, and numbers for 1933 are unknown. These were disappointing results for a car with so much promise, however the tough economic circumstances of the times almost certainly contributed to the weak sales results for a car that provided its owners with a then unfashionable perception of exuberance.
Meanwhile, the four-cylinder Hillman Minx was having a far more successful time, selling around 20,000 vehicles per year. The Wizard was discontinued from production in 1933. Rootes entered the six-cylinder market again in 1934, with the introduction of the 20/70.

Enjoy Driving Using Classic Cars

There are many reasons why people would want to own classic cars, and the most important one is the car's beauty. Many people will readily admit that the vehicles are unique and good to look at. A classic car will turn heads every time it is driven down the street. The term classic is used to define a car from a different age or era. While the term is fluid, there are different definitions depending on regions. There are clubs that set boundaries that limit the automobiles that can get that label, but generally, the vehicles should be at least over 30 years old. An antique class categorizes those that are over 45 years old.
Classic ones can tend to be quite costly, depending on the era they were made. The more rare the model, the more expensive it will be. Some models are highly sought after around the world with collectors offering great sums to own the car. Naturally, the condition of the car will determine the cost. There are, however, those who buy the vehicles in any condition, just for the joy of fixing them up to their former glory. Refurbishing a classic car can be very costly because of the unavailability of spare parts.
While most of those who buy the classics keep them as show pieces, they are many who enjoy driving these vehicles. Competitions are often held in different regions that are more like beauty pageants for the ancient vehicles. Here classic enthusiasts get to show off their collections to fellow collectors and fans. The vehicles are judged on their beauty, and how well they are preserved and maintained, among other considerations.
Those who drive the old vehicles have to be especially careful on the roads. These vehicles lack most of the safety equipment found on modern vehicles. Basic features like air bags and safety belts were not in use decades ago. The vehicle handling capabilities are also not as efficient as those found on modern vehicles. Break performance and steering are not up to the current standards and, therefore, these vehicles should be driven with the utmost care. Some regions limit or even prohibit the driving of these vehicles. It is also recommended that those who own the vehicles get them fitted with seat belts and other safety mechanisms.
Most of the old vehicles have bodies that were not designed to have seatbelts. This makes installing them quite problematic. There are also those who feel that this spoils the overall appearance of the car and the modern fittings go against the nature of a classic. Other suggestions such as the fitting of modern tires face the same challenges, as do upgrading of the braking system. There are those who suggest fitting the old vehicles with parts from more modern versions of the same model to improve safety.

5 Reasons To Invest In A Car Repair Manual

Car repair manuals on digital media are a worthwhile asset to both owners of existing cars and prospective buyers of used vehicles. Even if you never plan to turn a wrench on your American-made vehicle yourself, acquiring and keeping the repair manual specific to your model offers several advantages during ownership:
1) You're a do-it-yourselfer and wish to perform some repairs yourself. This needn't include major engine overhauls or extensive bodywork - even simple routine maintenance tasks have a right way and a wrong way to get the job done. Following the manufacturer's recommended procedure in a car repair manual can make the process easier and ensure a satisfactory result. Repair manuals also include diagrams, exploded views and up-close photography documenting the recommended procedure of a particular repair. Worth at least a thousand words during a complex task, diagrams and photos provide the DIY mechanic visual orientation to each step and illustrate the tools and techniques required.
2) You want to diagnose a mechanical problem yourself before taking it to a garage or professional mechanic for the actual work. Car repair manuals provide troubleshooting procedures and flow charts that list particular symptoms and offer potential causes and repairs. These procedures aid in isolating a malfunction to a particular component or system in the vehicle. This prepares the owner with advance knowledge of what he may encounter when the car is taken to the garage. Also, troubleshooting procedures familiarize the owner of the vehicle with technical terms or jargon his mechanic may use in explaining the malfunction. Clear communication between owner and mechanic is fostered and misunderstandings are minimized.
3) You wish to double-check a mechanic's repair estimate. Repair manuals offer a written version of manufacturer-recommended repair procedures and are helpful in determining whether a mechanic or garage is proposing a repair which varies significantly from the accepted procedure. If the manual describes a standard water pump replacement procedure without removal of the radiator, for example, yet the mechanic states that radiator removal is necessary, the vehicle owner may wish to obtain a second opinion to save potentially unnecessary labor costs. Conversely, consulting the repair manual can also provide reassurance that the mechanic is not cutting corners and omitting important steps to save time.
4) You need a single reference source for a wide range of vital statistics relating to your specific vehicle. Specifications, fluid capacities, weights and other facts and figures pertinent to vehicle ownership are typically listed in car repair manuals. Details such as recommended lubricants and tire pressure, replacement bulbs and service intervals are also included. Vehicle ownership requires access to accurate facts and figures which may not be available elsewhere, particularly if the vehicle is several years old.
5) You want to sell the vehicle and obtain maximum resale value. Providing the appropriate car repair manual on CD for a vehicle you are selling can be an important sales point. Prospective buyers are often interested in performing initial maintenance and repairs themselves and/or just becoming educated about the mechanics and design of their vehicle. If the vehicle you are selling has some existing mechanical issues that require repair, having the car repair manual available to clarify to prospective buyers what issues need to be addressed can ease buyer concerns and enhance the value of a used vehicle.

Automobile Transmissions - The Model A Ford

My very first ride was a spruced up 1930 Model A Ford Coupe. The transmission was stock and the engine nearly so. It was not a "hot rod" by any means.
It was my "knock around" car as a High School Senior. It had its quirks, but I liked it very much. I think I liked it most because it was my first car. I purchased it with my own saved money, earned working 20 hours a week washing dishes in a local Hospital.
I didn't care that it didn't have an external engine oil cooler or Cruise Control. In 1961, I didn't even know what those things were!
I had driven my father's '52 Ford with the "3 on the tree" manual transmission. I liked it and could drive it well. The transmission was modern, with synchromesh rings that I took for granted - until I learned how to drive again in the Model A.
The Model A had no synchromesh rings in the transmission. Therefore, it had to be driven carefully, very carefully, to avoid damaging the transmission.
Essential to success driving a Model A was a technique called double clutching, combined with a keen sense of what was happening mechanically. It took some time to learn but, once learned, proved a worthwhile effort.
Basically, it was best to start the Model A in first gear. That prevented the multiple thrills of trying to put it in gear with the engine running. It could be done, of course, but why do it if it wasn't absolutely necessary?
Always wanting to make a first gear start also had an effect on where and how I parked the car. I always asked myself, "If I park here, how will I leave?"
I developed what I thought were an effective set of common sense parking priorities.
My first choice was to park the car on a slight downhill grade with plenty of room in front of me to roll easily out of the parking space onto the street. A variation on this was in a not-quite-flat parking lot where I could plan to leave my space first rolling then driving forward.
The parking lot alternative was starting in Reverse, backing out, deftly double-clutching my way into First and driving out into street traffic.
That situation was the very best and I was surprised at how many times I could actually make my first choice happen. Not all the time, of course. But often enough.
Shifting up the gears from First to Second to Third required constant care because the lack of synchromesh in the Model A transmission was unforgiving.
Up-shifting was a matter of increasing speed in First to a perceived shift point. At that instant, the clutch went to the floor while I simultaneously moved the shift lever out of First and into the Neutral "gate" where it would move freely left and right.
Then, as the engine revolutions per minute (rpm) slowly dropped with my foot off the gas, I depressed, and then released, the clutch pedal.
At just the right instant, more sensed than felt, the engine rpm was just what it should be to begin accelerating in Second gear. At that precise moment, I depressed the clutch pedal again as I moved the shift lever up and to the right. If I did it right, the transmission would shift almost silently into Second gear.
I would then release the clutch and, usually, accelerate again in Second gear.
The process was repeated going into Third gear.
1. Accelerate to a desired "shift point" speed in Second gear.
2. Simultaneously take my right foot off the gas while I depressed the clutch pedal with my left foot and, with my left hand firmly on the steering wheel, pulled the shift lever back to the Neutral "gate" area.
3. Then, while the engine was slowing down, I would again depress and release and depress the clutch pedal in such a way that,
4. The instant the clutch pedal hit the floor the second time, the transmission and engine speeds were almost always matched to the point that I could slide the shift lever to the right and back to Third gear. Then I would release the clutch pedal to find the car chugging proudly down the street in Third gear.
Cruising down a rural road or a stretch of CA 99 was a pleasure in the Model A. It was hardly a "performance" car, but the engine seemed like it would run easily as long as I could keep the gas tank replenished.